People are always curious about where my favorite place has been.
And I’ve always been wishy-washy with my answer. It depends. Do you want sunshine and a beach? Dazzling Hikes? Tacos? Hot chicken & live music? Everywhere I’ve been has something unique that I’ve loved about them.
That was until Montana. It is now my go-to answer. It had everything; live music, hot weather, beautiful waters, stunning nature, & a big, big, beautiful sky. I just fell in love.
The First Visit – Billings, MT
I first visited Montana in the Spring of 2022 while on a cross-country road trip with my two dogs, Trixie and Bruno. I had originally wanted to go to Glacier National Park, but the roads were still closed, so we ended up in Billings for two nights.
We did a short hike through Zimmerman Park and quenched our thirst at Thirsty Street Brewing Co. I tasted and ended up with two damn fine bottles of whiskey from Undammed Distilling Co. We finished the night with dinner at Windmill Bar and 51. The pond next door offered peaceful views while I filled up on mac and cheese and the dogs chowed down on steak fritters.
It was one of my favorite nights of the month-long trip.
The Return Trip to MT
Fast forward to January 2023 when I became a digital nomad and took off from Washington. The plan was always to return by late August for my nephew’s birthday. I decided on the trip from Wisconsin to Washington, I would allot for a month-long stay in Montana. This time, I’d be staying near Glacier National Park.
There’s a lot covered in this post, feel free to check out what interests you and what doesn’t.
Glacier National Park
The Crown of the Continent is a fitting nickname for this National Park. With 175 mountains and 26 glaciers, every turn offers new, beautiful views. Wander through it some and you’ll find one of the 750 lakes or 1500 miles of rivers with some of the clearest, bluest water you’ve ever seen. And if you’re lucky, you might just catch a glimpse of a moose, bear, or mountain goat that call this land home.
There are a few things you should know before visiting.
Reservation System
More and more National Parks are beginning to require reservations. Initially, it may seem annoying, but it benefits all visitors. Reservations help keep the crowds down, making a more pleasant experience for everyone. The reservations are based on which entrance and road you’ll be on, the most popular being the West Entrance, Going-to-the-Sun Road.
The majority of reservations are opened four months prior to the reservation date.
It’s best to secure your reservation prior to making the trip.
Every vehicle entering Glacier National Park is required to have a reservation. It’s a small fee – $3. You can buy them here or using the Recreation.gov app. In addition, you will also need the National Park Pass.
The National Park Service also has an excellent FAQ section.
If you don’t get a reservation, don’t fret. You’ll still be able to get into the park.
- You do not need a reservation to enter the park before 6 AM or after 3 PM. In the summer, this gives you plenty of daylight to explore if you go after 3. Otherwise, rise early and get in before a reservation is required.
- A small portion of reservations are opened 24 hours before the reservation date.
- These go quickly. Be up and waiting at 8 AM MDT to secure your reservation 24 hours before your trip.
- Download the Recreation.gov app & familiarize yourself with how to purchase reservations. We were never able to secure reservations from the site on a laptop.
- Know what you want beforehand. There are different reservations for different entrances. The most popular is the 3-day Going-to-the-Sun Road. We got reservations for Going-to-the-Sun Road, and the Many Glaciers pass 24 hours beforehand.
- Prepare yourself that you may not get it. Have a backup plan.
- Book an activity in the park. There are plenty of activities in the park that provide shuttles to and from. Whitewater rafting, horseback riding, and fishing are popular activities to book and provide transportation into the park.
- And if, for some reason, you have days where you’re not able to get into Glacier, Montana has plenty of gorgeous places to visit in the surrounding areas.
While these things were the case when I visited, always make sure to check with the National Park Service website for any changes.
Shuttles and Parking
The day before Glacier, I went on a Bumble date with a fellow nomad. He gave me the advice to take the shuttle to the trailheads we wanted to do. The visitor’s center fills up fast. He shared horror stories of people who circled trailhead lots for hours, waiting for a spot to open. He didn’t get a second date, but I did decide to take his advice.
We started at Apgar Village, arriving just before 7. There was still ample parking, but a long line for the shuttle had already begun to form.
Unfortunately, on this particular day, there were some service issues with the shuttle; mechanical problems and sick workers—nothing anybody could control. The shuttles typically come every 15 – 30 minutes, but we ended up waiting a little over an hour.
As the shuttle rounded to the first views of the park, all my moodiness from the long wait melted away. It was absolutely stunning, and I was happy to witness it without the distraction of driving. That alone was worth the wait and why I’d highly recommend taking the shuttle, especially the first trip through. It gives you time to acquaint yourself with the park while still being able to fully enjoy the views.
Shuttle Need to Know
- Check the schedules to know when the last shuttle runs. You don’t want to be stuck in the park.
- Shuttles run every 15-30 minutes typically.
- If you are not using the shuttle, get to the park earlier. Based on my experience, you’ll want to be at whatever lot you’re parking in by 8 a.m.
- If you’re visiting different spots throughout the day, the later in the day, the harder it will be to find parking. Don’t be shy about asking people heading to their cars if they are leaving. They all understand the struggle.
- GNP has shuttles that run from both the East and West Entrances and stop at all the major trailheads.
- There are three visitor centers the shuttles run from, plus stops along the way. It’s about an hour and a half drive from Apgar Village Visitor Center (West Entrance) to Logan Visitor Center. From Logan Visitor Center to Saint Mary Visitor Center (East Entrance), 1 hour.
Park Early or Circle – Apgar Village
On the 2nd day at Glacier, we decided to test our luck and drive to the trailhead we wanted to do, Avalanche Lake. We got to the Trail of Cedars Nature Trailhead just before 8 AM and found plenty of parking. We did our hike, and on our way out, we passed by group after group of people. Cars were circling the trailhead. It was 11:15 AM.
From Avalanche Lake, we drove to Apgar Village to launch our boards. We got there around noon & parking was completely full. We circled the lot for about 20-25 minutes, asking everyone near their cars if they were leaving until we found a spot.
Cell service in the park is pretty much non existent. Plan your day out ahead of time and download any maps or information that you’ll need.
Stays
Aside from staying in one of the beautiful lodges in Glacier National Park (GNP), there are also reservable campsites for RVs and tents on a first-come, first-serve basis. This year, GNP started allowing certain sites to be open and reserved four days in advance. There are restrictions on the size of RVs that can be driven or towed through the park on certain roads. Make sure you check this out if staying in the park. Beware, the sites are primitive, with no electricity and no water.
While GNP may fill up fast, there’s no need to worry; Montana has plenty of other cities around the West Entrance with a lot to offer.
- West Glacier (just outside of Glacier)
- Columbia Falls (20 mins)
- Kalispell (42 mins)
- Whitefish (34 mins)
I created a Google Map of the nearby cities, paddle spots, and places we went if you want to check it out.
The RV parks range from $60 – $100+ a night in the surrounding areas. You can check out this list for some of the best in the area. There’s also a great guide here from Camping World.
Hipcamp
I was meeting up with a fellow digital nomad in Montana. She traveled in her car with an iKamper attached to the roof. We found that many of the RV parks were restricted to just one RV or 1 Tent on the sites, so we started looking at Hipcamp options.
We started planning in May for a 3-4 week visit that would begin in mid-July. Options were limited, but we found something in Columbia Falls with electricity, water, and mountain views. Rather than each paying $60+ per night for the stay, we were able to split one $60 per night Hipcamp, essentially cutting our cost in half. I have a video on my Instagram if you’re curious about what that site looked like.
At some point, I noticed the Under the Big Sky Festival was happening a week before we planned to arrive. Two artists I listened to regularly, Kat Hasty and Drayton Farley, would be putting on after-party shows at local venues. I decided to go to Montana a week early and booked another Hipcamp in Lakeside, just 30 minutes from our stay in Columbia Falls & 30 minutes from the venue. There were only a handful of options to pick from at this point that were close to where I wanted to be. I paid $45 a night for this site. It had electricity, water, and farm-fresh eggs 🙂
Eats
We always had a good meal when we were in Montana.
Okay, there was one place that was mid (not mentioned below), but that ain’t bad considering all the places we ate. I’m not going to list a review for ALL these places, but I can vouch that I would revisit each one.
Hops Downtown Grill - one bite each from the sampler platter
Not pictured but still enjoyed
- Hops Downtown Grill, Kalispell, MT – Upon seeing the seared ahi being delivered to another table, my friend changed her order to that. It was excellent.
- Gunsight Saloon, Columbia Falls, MT – the mac and jambalaya were delicious. Plus, there is live music on most nights.
- Columbia Bar, Columbia Falls, MT – Okay, so technically I didn’t get a chance to eat here, but something about the way the bartender said they had an awesome taco Tuesday and breakfast really just made me believe him. Next time.
- Bias Brewing, Kalispell, MT – Excellent beer and sandwiches. The macaroni salad was surprisingly spicy and flavorful.
Hikes
With over 700+ miles of trails in Glacier alone, plus 2.6 million acres of the Flathead National Forest literally next door, your options for hiking are endless. Here are some of the trails we did or planned to do. My favorite app to find local trails is All Trails. You can browse trails, read reviews, and track your hike in real-time.
Glacier National Park
| Highline Trail 14.9 miles Hard | Don’t be worried by the long distance, it’s an out-and-back trail, and you can turn around at any time. The views at the beginning are gorgeous and worth doing even a mile or 2. |
| Grinnell Glacier Overlook via the Garden Wall trail .8 Miles Hard | Don’t be fooled by the short distance. This is a pretty steep elevation gain and on a hot day is 100% sun exposed. When you make it to the top, don’t forget to go up to the 2nd overlook, you’ll be able to see 4 Glacial Lakes from there. |
| Loop Trail aka Granite Park Trail 8.2 miles moderate | You can either start from the loop trailhead that the shuttle stops at OR you can take the Highline trail to the Chalet and hop on it from there to catch the shuttle back to whatever visitor center you’re headed to. From the Chalet out, it’s only 4.1 miles. |
| Trail of Cedars .9 Miles Easy | A very easy trail that takes you along old growth trees on a boardwalk. You can use this to hop on the Avalanche Lake trail. |
| Avalanche Lake 5.9 miles Moderate | A pretty easy trail that leads to stunning views. The Lake and trails fill up fast, so get here early if possible. Don’t forget to bring your suit for a quick swim at the end. |
| Grinnel Lake 6.9 miles Easy | If you did the Grinnel overlook, this trail, accessible from the East side, will take you to the lakes that you looked down on. If you plan early, you can also take a boat ride and cut out 3.4 miles from the hike. |
| Iceberg Lake 9.6 miles Moderate | Known for the icebergs floating in the lake, this is a favorite from many visitors to GNP. |
| Cracker Lake 12.8 miles Hard | Tired of hiking – take a horseback tour of this trail. 12 miles leads to another beautiful glacier lake. |
You can check out videos of the hikes we did in Glacier over at my Instagram.
For more hikes in Glacier, check out this article.
Surrounding Areas
There are a ton of trails in the surrounding areas of Glacier National Park as well. The Flathead National Park is next door and has 2,249 miles of trails. Even outside of the Parks, there are some urban trails in Kalispell, Whitefish, & Columbia Falls that also offer something unique. Beaver Lake and Lion Mountain Trail are two easy trails that make for perfect after-work treks.
Itinerary Ideas
In case you want some help planning, I’ve included our itineraries for the days we were in Glacier. I can vouch for Day 1 and Day 2. Day 3 was planned out, but unfortunately, we never made it due to a family emergency.
Day 1 Itinerary – Highline Trail from Logan's Pass
- Park at Apgar Village
- Shuttle to Logan’s Pass (1.5 hours)
- Hike Highline Trail to Grinnell Glacier Overlook (6.9 mi)
- NOTE: Highline is 14.9 miles in and out, but you can turn around at any point. I’d recommend at least doing a mile or two of it just for the views.
- OPTIONAL - Hike Grinnell Glacier Outlook (.8 Miles, 900+ Feet Elevation gain, 100% sun exposed)
- This is a pretty steep elevation gain; don’t be fooled by the short distance.
- Continue on Highline Trail to the Chalet(.75mi)
- The Chalet is a great place to take a break. They have water, snacks, & restrooms. They also have rooms you can stay the night in; reservations are required.
- Take the Loop trail down to the ‘The Loop’ Shuttle stop (4.1 mi)
- Shuttle back to Apgar
Day 2 Itinerary – Avalanche Lake and Lake McDonald
- Park at Trail of the Cedars Nature Trailhead – arrive by 8 AM, the earlier the better
- Hike Trail of the Cedars to Avalanche Lake trailhead (.9 mi)
- Hike to Avalanche Lake (6 Miles)
- Drive to Apgar Village for a Paddleboard inspection or rental
- Stop at various pull-outs on the way to take in the beautiful Glacier waters
- DON'T skip these. These are usually easy, short trails that lead to stunning views of the blue glacial waters and only take a few minutes at each stop. Unless you decide to do a longer hike at one, which is always an option.
- SUP inspection or rental
- Park at ApgarVillage and launch boards
- Spend the day paddling and checking out shorelines at Lake McDonald.
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Day 3 Itinerary – Many Glaciers from East Entrance
Option 1
- Drive to 'Many Glaciers' entrance on East Side (2.5 hours)
- This would have been from Columbia Falls, you can go through the park as well but it's about the same time.
- Park at the Grinnell Glacier Trail Head
- Hike to Grinnell Glacier (10 mi)
- ALTERNATIVELY, plan ahead and book a boat ride across Lake Josephine to shave 3.4 miles off the hike
Option 2
- Drive to 'Many Glaciers' entrance on East Side (2.5 hours)
- Park at Iceberg Lake Trail Head
- Hike to Iceberg Lake (9.6 mi)
We didn't get a chance to do these days due to a family emergency but this is what we had planned.
Paddling
My absolute favorite thing to do, and we were blessed with the absolutely perfect weather to do it in. Nearly the whole time we were in Montana, it was sunny and in the 90s.
| North Foys Lake Park | Easy place to park and a nice small lake to paddle |
| Ashley Lake | Formed 12,000 years ago by Glaciers, this was my absolute favorite spot that we paddle boarded at. You’ll be driving down gravel roads for a bit, but it’s totally worth it. There are also campgrounds here if you’re looking for a spot to camp. |
| Whitefish River, Kalispell | There are many places to put in along the crystal clear waters of the Whitefish River, however, our favorite spot was the Old Steel Fishing Bridge. You can drive your vehicle right onto the shoreline and relax from the sun in the cool waters. |
| Swan Lake | Another day, another paddle planned |
| Flathead Lake | The largest lake west of the Mississippi in the lower 48 states. There are a ton of marine trails. We had planned to spend a Saturday or Sunday here and do the Wild Horses marine trail that led to an island that had, well, wild horses. |
| Lake McDonald | Inside Glacier National Park, 9 miles long, you could spend the day paddling this gorgeous lake best known for it’s colorful rocks. You can launch from Apgar Village or Lake McDonald Lodge. |
For more info on paddling in Montana, check out these links.
Other Ways to Explore North Western Montana
Live music & Dancing
I was pleasantly surprised with the live music scene in the towns surrounding Glacier. We never had to look far to catch live tunes. One of my favorite artists, Morgan Wade, played at Abayance Bay, about 90 minutes from where we were at. Surrounded by mountains and water, it was one of the most beautiful venues I’ve been to and an unforgettable experience.
- Coop, Columbia Falls
- Gunsight Saloon, Columbia Falls
- Blue Moon NiteClub, Columbia Falls
- Under the Big Sky Music Festival and After Parties
- Abayance Bay, Rexford
- The Boat Club Bar, Whitefish
- Great Northern Bar and Grill, Whitefish
- Live music in Kalispell
White water rafting
I couldn’t recommend this enough. It’s a great way to spend time in the beautiful glacier waters. You can book white water rafting for full days or half days. If you’re looking for something a little more relaxed, scenic, calm water floats are also offered.
After checking out the menus and pricing, we decided to go through Wild Rivers. They had a lighter lunch option, which we didn’t mind, plus their prices were the best. Our guide immediately put us at ease by telling us about her background in white water rafting plus the safety training they have to do. Under her watchful eye, there was never a moment I felt scared, only excited.
Horseback riding
Recommended by our white water guide, this is a great way to cover more miles of the park while saving your feet from hiking. Plus, she said they saw a moose while doing this. That alone made us consider this, but with so much to do, we never got around to it. Check out this article for more info.
Fishing
It wasn’t high on my list, but something I was eyeing up. Everywhere we paddled, trout swam below us. The thought of cooking up a fresh one over a campfire was mouth-watering. Unfortunately, time just didn’t allow for it, so it’s added to the list for next time.
Farmer’s Markets
Who doesn’t love a good farmer’s market? Luckily, this region of Montana has plenty to offer.
Columbia Falls – Every Thursday night. Included local goods and produce. Food trucks are set up as well. The Coop has drinks and live music just next door.
Kalispell – Every Saturday morning. Fresh fruit, veggies, and meat. Plus, local art.
Whitefish – Every Tuesday night. Live music, food, and local produce.
Lakeside
Lakeside is a little further from Glacier, taking about 1.5 hours, but it is home to the largest freshwater lake, west of the Mississippi AND Montana’s only Alpine Coaster. This is where my initial Hipcamp spot was but sadly Trixie passed away our second night here. I didn’t get much of a chance to explore the area after that but from the little I did see, you could easily spend a day or two just checking out this area of Montana.
Until Next Time
I’m already looking forward to my next trip back to Montana and can’t wait to explore this area more. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions about planning a trip.
