Did you know that the Southern tip of Florida is home to over 800 islands that spread across 126 miles? Well, technically they are keys, not islands, and as such, are known as the Florida Keys. The difference between a key and an island lies in what they are made from. Islands are land masses, that are surrounded by water. A key is the top of a coral bed, surrounded by water.
I’ve been coming to the Florida Keys since I was young, thanks to my Mom. She’s considered a conch aka, someone born in the Keys. We visited a handful of times when I was younger. She and my Dad recently took the plunge and after 35+ years of living in Wisconsin and a few years of snowbirding, decided to move back down here. It gives me the perfect excuse to come down more. They even put in a 30 amp electric pole and sewer line so I can comfortably stay and work in my camper next to the house.
Most people that know of the Keys, know of Key West. It’s the southernmost point of the US and home to Earnest Hemingway and Jimmy Buffet. I’m here to tell you, that the keys are so much more than Key West. If you spend all your time down there, while you’ll still have fun, you’ll be missing out on tons more.
42 bridges connect various keys with the majority being only accessible by water. The largest bridge spans 7 miles over the water, connecting the middle and lower keys. It doesn’t matter if I’m driving over it on a clear sunny day or a windy day pulling the camper, I still get a little nervous every time.
As there is only 1 way in and one way out of the keys, oftentimes you’ll hear people refer to locations by their mile marker. The keys start at Mile Marker 125 and count down to 0 as you head south.
So let’s get started on my favorite spots!
Robbies of Islamorada – Mile Marker 77 – Lower Matecumbe Key
The city of Islamorada spans over 6 keys and is home to one of my favorite Key’s attractions – Robbies of Islamorada. While there are a ton of water activities here, you’ll find one that’s truly unique to Robbies – feeding the tarpon.
Tarpons are fish that can get up to 8 feet long and Robbie’s marina is swimming with them. For $5 you can get a bucket of fish and if you’re brave enough, hand feed a tarpon. All it takes is holding the fish about 6 inches above the water, waving it back and forth, patiently waiting as the school of massive tarpons swim by, eyeing it up until one of them decides to make the jump. Not scary at all.
Because their teeth are like sandpaper, there’s only a slight risk of injury. Every once in a while, a tarpon will misjudge how far it needs to jump and will accidentally get your whole hand. It doesn’t hurt but you might end up bloodied and a little shook.
As if feeding the tarpon wasn’t exciting enough, you also have to patrol for pelicans. They watch the dock, like a flock of wild Florida crooks, looking for unsuspecting victims to steal fish from. The nets you see in the pictures, prevent them from stealing the fish while you wait for a tarpon to grab it.
Manatee are likely to stop in and say hi as well. Each time we’ve been here they’ve come up.
No matter when we come to visit the Keys, Robbies is always a must-stop for us.
Indian Key & Mangrove Trail
Outside of feeding the Tarpons, Robbies also offers a variety of other fun adventures from kayaking to jet skis and fishing charters.
My mom and I rented kayaks one day and paddled out to Indian Key. The paddle wasn’t bad out to Indian Key, taking maybe 30 minutes to an hour. Remnants and trails serve as a reminder of the people that used to live out there. Once you come back in, don’t skip the mangrove trails! The sun flickering in through the mangroves makes it feel like something out of a fairytale.
In addition to all the fun activities, Robbies also has an ice cream stand, which I can vouch, will make any tarpon injury feel better. They also have shops and a restaurant onsite. You can easily make a day out of just hanging out here.
Dolphin Research Center – Grassy Key – Mile Marker 59
At the Dolphin Research Center, you can get up and close to the resident dolphins and sea lions. Due to injury and other reasons, the animals here aren’t able to return to the wild so the nonprofit organization serves as their home.
Dolphins, in particular, need a ton of stimulation to keep their brain sharp. Here at the research center, they get that through interaction and training. Throughout the day, they showcase their smarts and talents to the delight of visitors.
If you feel like getting a little more hands-on, they also offer options to swim with the dolphins. I did this with my niece and it had me wanting to quit my job and become a dolphin caretaker. The dolphins are given tons of treats to motivate them to do tricks, but even so, they are free to do what they want. We had 3 dolphins assigned to our group, but the one just didn’t want to hang out and was off doing her own thing. Seeing how they are cared for and how smart they are, was truly a unique experience.
Outside of swimming with the dolphins, there are also a variety of other encounters you can choose from to make your experience as memorable as you’d like.
In addition to the dolphins, they also have sea lions and tortoises you can visit. Plus, if you’re traveling with a dog, they’re also welcome to watch the shows as long as they’re leashed.
Theater of the Sea – Windley Key – 84.5
Theater of the Sea is another great place to get to know the local non-human residents. It also holds a special place in my heart, it’s here I got my first kiss from the sweetest little sea lion. In addition to sea lions, they have dolphins, birds, turtles, parrot fish, sharks, alligators, and more. They put on shows throughout the day with the animals, showcasing their tricks and teaching the audience about them. They too offer opportunities to swim with the dolphins, train with the sea lions, or get up and personal with some sand sharks.
You’ve hopefully noticed the old broken-down railroad in the ocean by now.(Sidenote: There’s a pretty cool history on that you should definitely look into while you’re down here) The pools the animals live in are actually leftover gravel quarries that were used to help build it. According to their website, Theater of the Sea pumps 12 MILLION gallons of fresh seawater a day for the animals.
Don’t forget to visit the back of the park where you can feed the ever-so-cute parrot fish for some pocket change.
Turtle Rescue Center – Marathon – Mile Marker 48.5
A visit to the Turtle Rescue Center will have you seeing the word bubble butt in a whole new light. This amazing organization takes in sea turtles that have been harmed and gives them the care they need to return to the ocean, or a place to call home if they’re unable to.
A tour here will give you an appreciation for the turtles and the hard workers who give them a home and nurse them back to health. During the tour you’ll learn about the types of afflictions the turtles come up with most often, how they respond, and how they care for the turtles. It’s a working clinic so you even have a chance to see turtle doctors and nurses of the clinic doing their thing.
Earnest Hemingway House – Key West – Mile Marker 0
Earnest Hemingway was a Nobel-prize-winning author who spent many of his days in Key West. He’s best known for his books, “The Old Man and the Sea”, “A Farewell to Arms”, and “The Sun Also Rises”. Around Key West, he’s known for his love of the bar Sloppy Joes, deep sea fishing, and his 6 toed cats.
A tour of his home will take you through his life and work. Plus, you’ll get to meet descendants of his original 6 toed cats. The museum is still home to approximately 60 cats today that freely roam about. They are cared for by staff and local veterinary clinics.
Big Pine Key – Key Deer Reserve – Mile Marker 30
Living on Big Pine, the little key deer have a special spot in my heart and I think most locals would say the same thing. Timid but curious they can be seen just about everywhere on the Key. The smallest of their white-tail relatives, they have a population of about 800. It’s thought they ended up stuck down here after the Wisconsin Glacier melted, raising waters, and covering the land bridge some 6000+ years ago.
You’re likely to see the Key Deer just about anywhere, but as long as you’re on Big Pine, head to Blue Hole to check out the gators. There were 3 but from what I know, one disappeared after a hurricane. Now there are usually two. A viewing platform lets you stand within feet of them as they sunbathe on the shores of their little pond. Across the road from the Blue Hole parking lot are trails. They are perfect for taking a stroll on to spot the key deer.
Keep in mind, the Key Deer are wild animals and a protected species. As tempting as it may be, they are not to be fed, touched or lured into cars or homes. Just recently, Florida man was arrested for feeding and allowing them into his home. His bond was $32,000.
Beach Day
You don’t have to go far to find a beach in the Keys. And you’ve often got your choice of calmer waters on the bayside or rougher waters on the ocean side. To catch a sunrise, check out beaches on the oceanside, and for sunsets, beaches on the bayside.
Please – just a gentle reminder, if you’re going to be out on the water to paddle or float, check wind and current conditions. You don’t want to wind up on the news. Plus there is a pretty hefty fine for having to be rescued by the Coast Guard.
Before hitting the beach – be sure to pack the essentials.
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- Reef-friendly sunscreen – the sun is seriously hotter down here. Make sure you reapply often so your trip doesn’t get ruined by a burn.
- Water shoes – The Keys doesn’t actually have a ton of sandy beaches so these are very good to have. I left my old ones in WA but just ordered these ones.
- Polarized sunglasses – I love my ray bans, they help a ton when looking into the water and you see things through a different lens, literally. I went with my sister when they were on special for buy one get one half off.
- Beach Towels – I love these Turkish towels my sister-in-law got me for Christmas. They are fast drying and sand falls off them easily plus they are super pretty and lightweight.
- Goggles and snorkel – Normal goggles and snorkels work well, but my parents also have the full face mask ones if those look more comfortable to you. If you need prescription eye wear, don’t fret, you can order those too so you don’t miss out.
My Favorite Beaches so far
- Annes Beach – Lower Matcumbe Key – Mile Marker 73.
- Enjoy both bayside and oceanside views here. The naturally sand beaches make for a great place to swim. Get here early to get a kabana and stay out of the heat.
- Veterans Memorial Beach – Big Pine Key – Mile Marker 40
- You can walk out forever in this water and still see through to the bottom. Just be sure to shuffle your feet to avoid rays.
- Bahia Honda State Park – Big Pine Key – Mile Marker 37
- Very popular state park. You can walk out on a piece of the old railroad from here for spectacular views of the water.
- Pruitt Drive – Ramrod Key – Mile Marker 27
- I don’t remember how I found this place but I thought it was pretty cool. Just drive to the end of this road until you hit the water and park. It’s a deep channel that leads out to open water. The channel is lined with rocks you can sit on and relax and jump into the channel from. As I was paddling here, schools of fish were jumping together which made for a pretty cool sight.
- Curry Hammock – Little Crawl Key – Mile Marker 56
- My sister and I stopped here on a whim on our way up to Robbies. It’s a quiet little beach with a ton of kayak trails to paddle on. The site boasts that you’ll paddle through mangroves, out to a sand bar, and over grassy flats and a deep sea lagoon.
There’s one beach I’m leaving off, it’s my absolute favorite for snorkeling but is still pretty uncrowded and I don’t want to advertise it on the internet. If you’re headed down here and looking for a great place to snorkel, feel free to reach out.
Dry Tortugas National Park
As I was writing this and reminiscing on the beauty of the Dry Tortugas – I decided to dedicate my next post to it. There are not many places that leave me in speechless awe, wanting to cry over how beautiful this life is, but this was one of them. So check in soon to find out more about the place that made it to the top of this traveler’s list.
